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How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

In the last 15 years, I have raised nine orphaned kittens. Four of them were two weeks old when their mother was killed; three others only hours old their mother died; two other babies left our nest when they were only one day old.

Raising potbellied kittens is not a difficult process, but it does require patience, time and lots of TLC.

Here are some tips to help you raise your orphaned puppies:

1. Making nests.

Usually, a cat spends several hours a day in the nest with her kittens, which helps her babies stay warm. Keeping babies warm is important because if they are not warm enough, they will not want to eat, and in fact all of their body functions will slow down.

To keep your orphaned babies warm, make a nest in a small box and cover them with towels or old t-shirts or shorts to help the babies maintain their body temperature. Place a towel over the box to block the light. Female cats choose nests that are dark. If you don’t have a heat lamp, use a small 40 watt table lamp and place it a few feet above the box to help warm the babies.

If the box is large enough, you can also use a tub or other large container filled with warm water to warm the babies. Place the doll in the box and then make a nest with the towels. When it cools down, refill it. You can also use a quart jar as a “hot water bottle” except that a quart jar gets cold very quickly.

2. Use eye drops or a syringe to feed the insects.

The first time I raised orphaned kittens, I discovered that the little nursing bottles available at vet clinics were too big. The kittens couldn’t keep their mouth shut. So, at first, I used eye drops for newborn kittens. As the babies got older, a syringe worked very well, some kind of candy for giving injections (no needle of course!). I started with the 3 cc size and used larger syringes as the babies grew. The tip of a syringe is about the size of a cat’s paw, and my cats have finally chewed enough on the end of the syringe to push the tip down on their own. Check with your veterinary clinic to see what used syringes are available or to see if you can purchase new syringes from the clinic.

A word of caution: Whether you are feeding with an eye dropper or a syringe, be careful to only give a few drops at a time. My doctor told me that if babies are given too much formula at one time (more than they can swallow), they may inhale it. Avoiding formula will make your baby’s lungs much more comfortable.

Along the way, I also discovered that it’s best to feed babies as much as they want to eat. If they eat enough they will sit down and sleep until the next meal. Small kittens will start taking maybe 1 CC at a time. As they grow, they will eat around 12 CC at a time (usually in several different helpings).

Kittens learn very quickly that food comes from the syringe you hold in your hand. If you are having trouble getting the formula out of the syringe, let it melt in the palm of your hand for a few seconds or let your fingers dry. Then introduce the syringe and let them suck from it while you very slowly lower the pellet down.

3. Give the baby KMR or formula kit that you have mixed yourself.

KMR, a canned cat’s milk substitute, is available in prepackaged or dry form at most veterinary clinics. It is specially formulated for babies to provide them with all the nutrients they need. Follow the instructions on the label. The amount of food is determined according to body weight. My newborn kittens weighed three ounces each, and for the first few days, they only needed half a KMR eye drop at a time.

My vet clinic also gave me a prescription for “kitten formula”. After the first KMR fountain, this is what all my pups have been raised on.

Here is the recipe for Kitten Formula

1 cup of milk

1 tablespoon of white sugar syrup

1 egg yolk

a pinch of salt

Mix in a blender and mix it well in advance, so that the bubbles have time to disperse.

Heat on high heat. Heat the formula so that it is slightly warm in the hand. All of my kittens refused to swallow formula if it was too cold or too hot. The same was true for KMR.

4. Feed your kittens on a regular schedule three times a day.

Mother cats nurse their kittens every two hours. The vet I consulted warned me not to feed them too often. “They’re not going to eat well and you’re going to be frustrated and they’re going to be frustrated and it’s going to be harder for everybody,” he said. It was true. Eating insects three times a day was very good.

5. Wash your girls with a warm, wet washcloth and help them empty their bladders and bowels.

Young kittens can’t empty their bladders or move their bowels, so you have to help them. Use a warm, wet bath and scrub under their tails until they empty their bladders and/or move their bowels. Be prepared to use about four washes per baby. If they just empty their bladders, you won’t need as much. If you have to empty your bowels, watch out — it can get messy! Smaller rocks that you can squeeze with one hand while using the other hand on a squirming baby work best with the other hand. I put the washcloths in a bowl of hot water and put the bottle where I can easily reach it.

Young kittens don’t even know how to scratch themselves, and after a day or two of feeding on insect formula, they become addicted to the formula that inevitably oozes from their beaks. From time to time, use a warm, wet washcloth to remove the formula, but be careful not to get the cats TOO wet or they will have a hard time warming up.

6. When they are four weeks old, provide litter.

Cats have a strong instinct to use material that they can scratch around when they have to empty their bladders and move their bowels. By the time babies are four weeks old, they will already be in this area and providing them with litter will help them get the idea. You may still need to help them with a wash bottle for a while, but it won’t be long before they use the litter box.

A piece of kit in an aluminum pan works well for starters. As the babies grow, use a larger container for the litter box.

7. When the kittens are about six weeks old, start eating solid food.

Kittens that are raised by their mothers may start to eat earlier than six weeks, but you will be able to get more milk from their mother.

Once your little one has teethed, you can start eating solid foods. If you want to eat dry food, a good quality kitten food will work well. Wild kittens have all the nutrients and proteins they need to grow. Baby food is also made into small baby-sized portions. You can also try canned kitty food to tempt them and give them a “treat”. Be sure to provide fresh water for your kittens to drink as well. And until babies are eating solid foods regularly, supplement their caloric intake with kitten formula. At this time, you will not need to feed them with a syringe. You can put the formula in a small container, and once they discover where it is and what it is, they will drink it themselves.

8. Be prepared to be surprised.

Kittens grow up very quickly, and in a few days, you will think that they are growing up before your eyes.

Kittens open their eyes when they are about 10 days old.

They will start moulting when they are 6 days old.

Kittens will begin other “kitty behaviors” such as shaking their heads, trying to groom themselves and reaching for food to gnaw behind their ears when they are between two and three weeks old.

Young kittens sometimes pee when you feed them (!).

Young kittens are kind of like human babies. Their days consist of eating, sleeping and emptying their bowels and bladder. After the insects have had enough to eat and their physical activities are taken care of, when you put them back in the “nest”, they will sleep quietly or meditate until you feed them again. If they are uncomfortable and crying and fussing, they may be given a little more to eat, or they may need to empty their bladder or move their bowels, or they may need to cool down.

As babies get older, they will stay awake longer and eventually start playing together.

By the time the babies are four weeks old, you will most likely have to move them into a bigger crate, if not sooner, because the first one will be too small and they will know how to get out on their own!

If you have any questions about raising orphaned kittens, you can email me at bigpines@ruralroute2.com

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© 2004 LeAnn R. Ralph

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