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Instructions Of a Portable Power Saw And Power Sander
With a portable power saw, wood can be cut at least ten times faster than by hand, and the cuts will be much more precise and look much better. Saws range from small, which weigh 27/4″ pounds and cut 5/4″ deep, to large 12″ units that weigh 34 pounds. It’s best to buy the smallest one that will do the job. An inexpensive saw will cut 15/8″ deep; that’s enough for more than 97 percent of the cut you’ll make. If you have to cut deeper, it’s simple to reverse the wood and cut to meet the first cut.
For the man who does his job in an apartment or the homeowner who plans only small jobs, the small 4″ diameter saw is completely adequate. It can cut up to 5/4″. A variety of blades are available and adjustable guides can be added.
Calculate the distance of the saw plug from the power source. If you will be working at a considerable distance, use an extension cord of sufficient size to prevent a drop in supply voltage. For distances up to 35′, use No. 14 or heavier wire; up to 100′ use No. 12 or heavier wire. Extension cords in specific sizes can be purchased with that purpose in mind.
Don’t overwork your light-duty saw. Cut the pieces one by one, as you measure and mark them, instead of doing all the marking at one time and cutting at another. Never force the blade into the job; gentle, steady pressure is best. Turn the saw on and listen for it to come up to full speed before entering the wood, and then let it work its way through; you just guide and design the work. Anytime the cut appears to bind the blade, drive a screwdriver or wedge into the cut behind the blade to hold the cut open. Make especially sure that your work is well supported. Any movement of the board being cut will bind the blade or deviate it from the guide line.
And don’t let the engine overheat. If you find the motor casing too hot to touch, please stop sawing and do something else while the motor cools down, as further use will damage the motor. As with all cutting tools, always use a clean, sharp blade and keep an extra on hand. Clean the blade with kerosene to soften the tar and gum that will pick up when cutting undry wood. Cleaning the blade with kerosene before cutting such wood prevents it from gumming up during use.
The portable saw blade’s teeth cut upward, leaving the best edge at the bottom of the cut. When cutting plywood, score the back surface and work with the best face down to protect it. In finer grades and sheets, this practice is absolutely essential. Plan your cut so that the widest base remains in the supported section as the cut is made; this is usually on the left side of the sheet. If possible, use guides; they provide much more precision than just a marked line.
For general rip and cross cuts, a combination blade will work well. If you have a large amount of one type of work, switch to the appropriate sheet. A crosscut blade works best on plywood and for cutting across the grain of the wood. For large amounts of rip cutting, switch to a wire saw blade. A miter blade gives a much better and smoother finish to the cut. Use when cut appearance is important, such as work such as exposed edges and grain ends.
In addition to the cuts shown in the photos, you can make grooves along the edges of the board with two cuts to the measured depth at right angles to each other. Additionally, you can make slotted cuts by setting the blade to the desired depth, making two parallel cuts, and chipping away with a chisel. You can also use special washers to complete these cuts, attaching them to the shaft next to the blade.
When the family handyman goes to buy a power sander, they may very well ask for “a sander to do everything around the house”, and there is no such thing as the perfect house or the panacea pill. In general, there are three types of electric sanders: disc, belt, and finishing. Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages as each one was designed for a specific purpose.
All disc sanders have a circular rubber pad mounted at a right angle to the drive shaft of the motor. The abrasive discs are attached by a flange and a screw that threads into a steel rod that is held by the chuck. Discs are easy to change, and in the 5″ and 6″ diameter sizes, the choice of grits (degree of roughness) is excellent.
Disc sanders typically have RPMs above 3,000 and their primary function (by design) is to remove material quickly and roughly. If you have a lot of paint to remove or a lot of wood to sand, disc sanders will do better. They are not designed and therefore not recommended for finishing work. Too many new disc sander owners attack (and “attack” is the only word) a sanding job as if they plan to push the sanding disc through the job. The results are swirls, nicks, clogged or broken discs, and an overheating motor. It is best to sand with 1 flex disc with speed, not pressure. If the tool is slowing down and you notice it, slow down. For best results, keep the disc almost flat and move it slightly over the surface. Keep three grits on hand (coarse, medium, and fine) and use the right grit for the right job. On really tough jobs like exterior window sills and heavily painted porch floors, where discs still load in seconds, try a #7/2 open-ply disc. It is long-lasting and charges very little. All disc sanders can be used as polishers. Simply remove the abrasive and cover the pad with a lambswool cap.
A belt sander should not be considered by handyman who plans to own only one type of sander. In general, belt sanders are for heavy duty work on large, flat surfaces. Portable types are excellent for smoothing large, flat areas before finishing. In the shop, a stationary belt sander can be used for joining and finishing work. Instead of being guided over the work, the work is pushed against the rotating belt. For most of your jobs, the belt sander will use medium and fine grit abrasive belts, and they can remove a large amount of material quickly. Belt widths are available from 2″ to 4″, with lengths from 21″ for the 2″ width to around 28″ for the 4″ width.
Finishing sanders go by many names—orbital, reciprocating, straight line, vibratory, and flat—but they all have one common purpose: to provide a fine finished surface. They won’t remove paint quickly or do a good job of removing wood, but they will provide a smooth, fine surface.
With finishing sanders, the abrasive is laid flat on the surface to be finished and moved in very short, fast strokes in all directions. The tool has a wide variety of uses due to this versatility. The selection of abrasives is similarly wide, but since finer work is the primary goal, medium, fine and very fine grits are likely to be used. Use a medium grit to smooth drywall patches and drywall taped joints. Use fine and very fine grits for furniture finishing. An abrasive “sand screen” cloth can also be used for such purposes after it has been cut and placed on the sanding pad.
When restoring furniture, first remove any old varnish or shellac with a good chemical stripper, as an abrasive rough enough to remove the finish can also scar the wood, and finer abrasives will not be helpful. It helps as the arena will load on the first. few seconds. Change the beans frequently. Don’t try to do a job from start to finish with just one grade of abrasive. Use progressively finer grit as work progresses. This doesn’t mean you have to waste paper. Save the sheets you change and use them in another job. And for really fine work, don’t use a new blade. Run a new sheet on some waste for a bit and then use it. Fine finishing paper can sometimes have an abrasive lump that will leave swirl marks with orbital sanders. Always make sure the paper is tight; otherwise, its effectiveness will be lost.
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