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How to Choose Binoculars for Birding: The Right Binoculars Can Make a Difference!

Choosing the right binoculars for bird watching, or birding, can really make the difference between starting a great, enjoyable hobby, and being disappointed and never going birding again. It’s just that important. There are some activities that rely so heavily on your first experience that it’s so bad you’ll never do it again. Birding is one of those activities. If you can’t see the bird, or if you can’t focus clearly enough on the bird, or see details in its colors, it can be very frustrating. It can be crazy when you hear people talking about how beautiful a bird is and you’re having trouble seeing the bird! I want to tell you what to look for in getting binoculars that will make your new hobby that much more fun!

Compatibility is a word we will use a lot when choosing binoculars for birding. The trick is trying to understand what you want from the optic, and how you are most likely to use the optic. For example binoculars are better with really large lenses, they let in more light and allow for much better viewing in low light, they are also heavy and if you need to carry them around all day, they are also heavy. A smaller lens may not let in as much light, but it will be much easier to carry. You have to decide what is best for you!

What do all the numbers mean?

The first thing you’ll notice when looking at binoculars is that there are lots of numbers! Here’s what some of those numbers mean! You’ll find things like 8×32, 10×42, 5×25, and everything in between. The first number is the magnification, and the second number is the size of the objective lens (the large front lens), usually in millimeters. You can see FOV and a number usually in feet. such as 200, 315, 180. This is the diameter if the view is mostly at 1000 meters. More on these later.

size: Choosing the size of your binoculars depends on several factors. Do you plan to walk, or do you plan to watch from your balcony or car? Are your hands still, or do you have tremors or tremors? All of these are involved in making this decision. You want to find a balance between the weight, the size of the objective lens and the way you want to use them. The compact binoculars out there, while small and easy to carry, won’t be as sharp or perform as well in low light, and will be more difficult to maintain. Larger ones usually have larger objective lenses and sharper images in low light, but they can be heavy. There are medium size models with 30-35mm objectives and full size models with 40-45mm objectives. Full size will give you almost all the detail you can see with your eye, but it’s a bit heavier. You need to have an idea about your usage.

Roof vs Porro Prism: This describes the configuration of the telescopes more than anything else. The porro prism is used in the classic binocular shape, the straight roof prism is more like a telescope. There is a slight optical advantage to both, but the manufacturing cost is higher in the roof prism. So they’re usually more expensive and they’re a little more complicated. There are 2 main materials that these prisms are made of, BK-4 and BAK-7. BK-4 is considered because BAK-7 can cause blurring around the edges of the image.

Objective lens sizes: As we already started, this lens is in front of the binoculars, Its main function can be considered to gather light. the larger the diameter of the lens, the more light you can collect. For example a 35mm lens will collect about 2x the light of a 20mm lens. This is based on the formula area=pi(r)². However, a larger lens will be heavier and less comfortable to carry. Most birds recommend 42mm as the largest size to comfortably carry for long periods of time.

Coatings: Coatings are applied to glass lenses in several ways, but their purpose is to help transmit light, reduce reflection, and improve color fidelity. The best binoculars are fully coated, meaning that every lens element is wrapped inside the binoculars. Only some lens components are covered and not covered there. This treatment can dramatically increase the transmission of concentrated light. The coating on the lenses is very thin and a little thin, when cleaning the lenses, care must be taken not to damage the coating.

FOV: This is a measure of how wide the lens’ angle of view is. think of it like this, when you look at something with binoculars, the circle you see is your field of view. they measure this in or angles ft/1000 yds. If you see a value like 315ft/1000yds it means that if you focus on an object that is 1000 yards away, then the circle you see is 315ft in diameter. If you are given a value in degrees, such as 6.5 degrees, you can get feet by multiplying the degrees by 52.5. The wider the field of view, the easier it will be to see the birds and follow their movements, as birds usually move quickly so being able to spot them quickly is important for a good exit. For birds you want and angle of 6.5 or 341 ft at 1000yds.

Eye comfort: This is how far the image is from the eye to your eye. This can be a problem for people who wear glasses like me. If you wear glasses, you want to look for long glasses or adjustable straps that can be retracted to fit the glasses.

These are great things to consider when buying a new set of binoculars for birding. This is by no means a complete list of things to think about, but it does hit on some great ideas. Understanding these terms and how they work can make choosing your bird binoculars easier. The most frustrating thing is to find all the information about a certain product. Use all the resources you can to see all the things you can before you spend your money!

Happy Birding!

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