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Is Your Fragrance Sustainable?

Perfumery may sound good, but ingredients derived from plants and animals can contain critical environmental and ethical harms.

Perfumery can seem like a reasonable enterprise. He is more concerned about his breath than the rest. but as one of the world’s most important luxury industries, perfume manufacturing can have a major impact on certain plants and animals that are often valued for their rare scent profiles. Most body spray formulas are hidden behind one word on fragrance labels, always ‘Parfum’ or ‘Aroma’, which makes it confusing for the consumer to know if a product is made using ethically sourced ingredients. The sustainability of the raw materials used in perfumery is not always a major issue for buyers, while environmental awareness of ideas seems to be growing.

photos via FotoMediamatic The specific raw materials used in perfumery are extracted from animals and rare flora.

Most perfumes these days are designed using artificial ingredients, but there has also been a renaissance when it comes to using natural and organic ingredients, and some perfumes are described as ‘mixed media’ blends that contain both synthetic and and eats naturally. products Although artificial ingredients are generally cheaper, natural fragrances have certain advantages that attract attention from manufacturers and consumers, including the fact that they are much less likely to cause allergies, asthma, or headaches. However, using herbal ingredients can also be difficult. Some raw plant materials have been so over-exploited by perfume makers and adored by fragrance lovers that they are now threatened with extinction, and the exhaustion of animal-derived ingredients raises critical ethical concerns.

The perfume industry is among the largest users of essential oils extracted from plants. Although many plants are grown specifically to satisfy consumer demand, there are some wild flowers that are of interest in the industry. almost all of these are highly appreciated by perfumers due to their rarity, difficulty in mixing, and because they have a specific scent profile and add nice nuances to body spray formulations.

Sandalwood, which is both used in perfumery and traditional medicine, is an example. it is primarily harvested in India, where it is now essentially extinct in the wild. The Indian government introduced strict laws on sandalwood harvesting in the sixties, and as a result, the production in the country has greatly decreased. However sandalwood is still listed as such in the IUCN Red List. Because the sandalwood tree is endangered in the wild, Australia has entered the sandalwood market and is sustainably producing the wood. Environmentally responsible body spray brands consistently specify sandalwood base if it is used in their formulations.

although agriculture can offer an alternative option to endless wild harvesting, it also poses problems. woods like sandalwood and aquilaria—yet another tree often targeted for making body spray—slow down. They take a long time to grow, and maturity is standard for oil extraction. but this capacity for farmers, to recover their capital takes several years, sometimes up to 10 years. And when the supply can’t keep up with demand, hunters turn to wild incense, especially in the case of aquilaria. The Aquilaria tree is famous for the agar resin that forms when the trees are infected with mildew. In some cases, these predators destroy the wild population of the century wild. In Hong Kong – which in Cantonese means fragrant port or incense – agarwood is close to extinction in the wild where almost all the oldest and largest trees have been illegally cut down.

Looking for older trees that are naturally dirty because they have a higher value, so they looking for older trees. helping to run aquilaria plants, the BBC informed. “Now in Hong Kong, you’d be lucky to find a 30-year-old tree.”

In addition to the threats to some flora, there are also animal welfare considerations in perfumery. Animal products have been slowly disappearing from perfumes in recent years, while some manufacturers still, unfortunately, use them, and the style is actually being revived by some interesting perfume manufacturers. Animal products—including castoreum from bees, glandular secretions from civet cats, perineal secretions from endangered musk deer, and ambergris, a substance produced using the digestive system of sperm—have historically been used as fixatives in used in old perfume formulas. Fixatives are used to stabilize the fragrance and to reduce evaporation costs. Fragrances such as those produced from musk and civet can now be produced synthetically, but due to the high demand for herbal fragrances, some manufacturers do not prevent the use of synthetic ingredients.

These animal-derived materials are in most cases cruelly produced. Ambergris is one possible exception – it is traditionally considered cruelty-free because it is a type of whale waste and can be found on beaches and oceans after being extracted by whales. Its consumption is still illegal in the United States because sperm whales are listed as an endangered species, and the Endangered Species Act prohibits the use of any product from an endangered species, but it is still harvested in Europe. and one of them is important. the least common components in today’s business.

However, even with the belt, there is a challenge about whaling. Eleonora Scalseggi, co-owner of the standard oil business Hermitage Oils, says that on many occasions, her business has been approached by the use of Americans who are trying to get a large number of ambers with the least information. “Now in my opinion, these are clear signs of a belt that comes from poaching,” she says. “Kefir amber is found trapped in very small quantities. It is not uncommon for large pieces to be found, and even if so it is never very heavy. I believe several kilos of fresh amber in one piece on there is evidence that the whale has been recently killed. It may indeed come from a dead whale stranded on the beach, but it is highly unlikely.”

It is a difficult material to extract from civet cats. In Ethiopia, for example, civets are caught from the wild and saved on home farms, a practice that goes back centuries. Animals are usually kept in small cages, in which they can rarely move. Cages can be found in dark rooms with no daylight hours or ventilation with a constant source of fire to create a smoke-filled environment – the higher temperature is believed to facilitate the production of musk. Due to temperature changes between day and night, stress and painful extraction methods, there is a high cost of mortality among captive animals.

Castoreum, made from beaver sacs, has always been a popular fragrance ingredient, especially in high end perfumes. although many fashionable designer fragrances replace it with synthetic components, the herbal type can also be found in attractive perfumes. It was so common in the creation of early perfumes and for medicinal applications that it was hunted to extinction in Scotland in the sixteenth century. In 2016, the rose was moved back to its grassy habitat. it’s expensive and basically impossible to get secretions from live bees, so they have to be hunted and killed—and the sacs removed and tinned—to obtain this aromatic ingredient.

Perhaps, the most famous unethical animal product is deer musk. however, muskrat use has declined, today six muskrat subspecies are listed as threatened on the IUCN Red List, and a seventh is listed as endangered by the IUCN. However, deer populations are declining and the main threat is the illegal extraction of musk in Russia, Mongolia and China for medicinal use in the perfume business. Deer mice can also be extracted from live animals but they are usually killed to get rid of their larvae. Musk is obtained from male deer, and to find a deer that will yield enough musk economically, about 25 grams, consultants estimate that 3-5 deer are killed. Non-target animals are also routinely killed by poachers looking for deer.

Body spray manufacturers can exploit a number of strategies against persistence. rare uncooked substances can be either sustainably sourced, substituted with different herbal oils with similar aroma profiles, substituted with artificial alternatives, or avoided altogether when sustainable alternatives are not available. although some of these alternatives can be confusing. For example, some artificial alternatives are not considered eco-friendly, and some vegetable oils are offered under normal names, but are extracted from several different plants, so it is very difficult to manage the export certificate.

As an eco-conscious consumer, there is only one technique to ensure that perfumes are sustainable and cruelty-free: assess how transparent a perfume company is. As it continues to evolve, several small indie brands have begun to pave the way for a more responsible approach to perfume making and ingredient sourcing, and to increase transparency, and a number of well-established body spray businesses are beginning to close. They have also made promises of sustainability.

You don’t have to stop using fragrances if you’re an environmentally conscious consumer. logically, you should be more careful when buying the last bottle, and look for producers who appreciate nature and whose ethics are not only the most effective in terms of using ethical raw materials but also the sustainability of advertising throughout the trade.

Kamila AbdurashitovaKamila Abdurashitova, also known as Kamila Aubre, is an independent designer and neutral perfumer. She has an MA in Political and Allied Sciences from Lancaster University. meanwhile she lives in Belgium designing natural fragrances as well as developing an eco-conscious approach to beauty and fragrance products.

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